I'm actually getting hooked on free motion embroidery! And apparently there's a name for displaying your work in an embroidery hoop... it's called 'hoop art'! Who knew!
Just to keep you up to date and share with you with projects I'm working on that I thought you may be interested in...
Tuesday, 30 April 2013
Friday, 26 April 2013
I printed a photograph of Alfie onto printable fabric, then freehand embroidered with the Toyota Oekaki machine. Took about two hours and quite a few yards of thread! I found the fabric really puckered when sewing but after the whole piece was finished it lay flat. I'm really pleased with he result, the small stitches look furry!
Monday, 22 April 2013
Sunday, 21 April 2013
The e books just about finished, so I'm starting on the next one... I'm not giving anything away yet but it'll be conductive! I've spent most of my spare time this week cutting shapes with my new Slice machine, it's selling really well and there are a few more shows planned in on Create and Craft over the next couple of weeks.
The first Humphrey sewing kit is being finalised this week so hopefully I'll have time to put my feet up for a while! Or not...
The first Humphrey sewing kit is being finalised this week so hopefully I'll have time to put my feet up for a while! Or not...
Wednesday, 17 April 2013
Tuesday, 16 April 2013
Monday, 15 April 2013
Sunday, 14 April 2013
Well I had a lovely day yesterday demonstrating cushion covers at the garden centre in Milton Ernest, I met quite a few of you so thank you for joining me! One lovely kind lady gave me two bags of fabric that she didn't need, and I've smocked a large piece of tartan already. Amber from the garden centre gave me a gorgeous little watering can filled with pansies, it felt like it was my birthday! Then on to work where I spent a fun hour with Jennie Rayment. What a fun day! I'll post pictures of my latest work when I get some time...
Tuesday, 9 April 2013
Sunday, 7 April 2013
Saturday, 6 April 2013
This was the page in Sew Magazine last month with a cushions project from my cushion cover book, I seem to be making cushion covers every week at the moment! I'm demonstrating sewing cushion covers at Milton Earnest garden centre on Saturday 13th April and the book I'm working on at the moment involves at least 15 covers... our house is well and truly sound-proofed!
Friday, 5 April 2013
Advice from a Singer manual 1949
Please take not of how to get the best from your sewing.... lets make sure we are 'neatly put together'...
Advice from a Singer sewing manual from 1949.
Prepare yourself mentally for sewing. Think about what
you are going to do… never approach sewing with a sigh or lackadaisically. Good
results are difficult when indifference predominates.
Never try to sew with a sink full of dirty dishes or
beds unmade. When there are urgent housekeeping shores, do these first so your
mind is free to enjoy your sewing.
When you sew, make yourself as attractive as
possible. Put on a clean dress. Keep a little bag full of French chalk near
your sewing machine to dust your fingers at intervals.
Have your hair in order,
powder and lipstick put on. If you are constantly fearful that a visitor will
drop in or your husband will come home, and you will not look neatly put
together, you will not enjoy your sewing.
Thursday, 4 April 2013
Wednesday, 3 April 2013
Hessian door stop instructions
I’ve been asked so many times for these instructions so
here we go…
3. For
the handle, this is a strip of hessian 7” long by 3” wide, folded over lengthwise
so the sides overlap in the middle, and pressed. I then stitched a length of ribbon over the raw edge.
5. Now
to decorate! I’ve used some of my ribbon scraps, heart applique and the odd
button and bow, and I’m just decorating two sides so it doesn’t look too fussy.
Hold your applique shapes in place with some Stick and Stay for fabric before
sewing.
6. Sew
the four sides together into a ‘tunnel’ shape.
7. For
the top piece, you’ll need to attach the handle, sew the two ends to the edge
of the top fabric, as the handle is an inch longer it should bow a little.
8. Keeping
the four sewn sides inside out, pin the top in place then sew all the way
round, stopping at each corner with the needle down before pivoting to keep the
corners sharp.
9. Do
the same now with the bottom, but leave a gap of around 3” to allow you to turn
the box and stuff it.
10. Turn
the right sides out, and stuff tightly with wadding.
11. Before
filling completely, push your little bag of rice into the base of the doorstop.
Tuesday, 2 April 2013
Monday, 1 April 2013
Alfie
My blog wouldn't be the same without Alfie making an appearance, he loved my smocked headboard so much he burst into song!
My next book...
This is an e book I'm working on at the moment, covering smocking techniques. Hopefully it will be out by the end of the summer but is taking such a long time to complete as all the designs are stitched by hand. Worth it though!
Sewing machine bag instructions
Sewing machine
bag
For my bags I used quite a heavy woven cotton in two
patterns, and canvas as thick as I could sew through! The size will fit a
standard sized sewing machine with a bit of room to spare, you could adapt the
measurements for a larger machine. I used foam board for the base which is
sturdy enough but can be cut through, you can buy this from craft shops, or use
ply wood or mdf which you will have to saw.
1.
For the sides, cut two rectangles of fabric
measuring 17” x 13.5”
2.
Cut two of the same size in canvas.
3.
Apply Heat and Bond with a hot iron to each
piece of canvas, peel off the backing and re-iron onto the wrong side of your
fabric.
4.
Using a cup or mug as a template, round off the
top two corners of each rectangle.
5.
For the pocket, two pieces of fabric measuring
9” square, sewn right sides together top and bottom to make a tube, turned the
right way round and pressed. I added a strip of lace to the top, ribbon would
be okay too.
6.
For the bottom of the bag, cut a rectangle of
fabric 17” x 8”, and Heat and Bond this to a piece of canvas the same size.
7.
For the hard inner base, cut a rectangle of foam
board or similar to 7” x 16”.
8.
Cut a piece of your fabric to around 18” x 14”
and wrap around the base, gluing to secure.
9.
For the zipped section, you’ll need a 45” length
of continuous zip with two sliders that meet in the middle, and four strips of
fabric measuring 45” x 4”.
10.
The handle is a piece of upholstery webbing 3
yards long. [There may be a couple of inches left over]
11.
Sew the bottom of each side right sides together
to the bag base.
12.
Place the pocket in the centre of the front
panel and sew down each side.
13.
Pin the handles in place, starting at the base
of the bag, up the front and loop over the top for the handle, and back down
the other side. Make sure both sides are equal distance from the sides, and
about 7.5” apart, covering the sides of the pocket.
14.
Take the strap around the second side of the
bag, keeping the handles the same length.
15.
Sew in place, sew a cross at the top of the
handle for strength, and don’t sew the handle too close to the top of the bag
to leave room for fitting the zipped section.
16.
To sew in the zip, sew the first edge of the zip
face down onto the long strip of fabric. Lay the second strip over the top and
sew again. For the confident, you can do this in one movement, sandwiching the
zip between the two strips of fabric. Open up and press, then stitch the other
side of the zip to the remaining two strips in the same way. Open up and press
again.
17.
I sewed all the way around the outside of this
panel just to hold its shape.
18.
Lay your bag face up, and pin the zipped panel
face down to the base, and sew across the two ends.
19.
Pin the side of the zipped panel all the way
around one side of the bag, and sew, leaving the other end open for now.
20.
Pin and sew the other side of the zipped panel
to the second side of the bag.
21.
Open the zip enough to turn and finally sew the
base of the bag to the other end of the zipped panel. You’ll find that the zip
will need trimming by about an inch, I did this to make sure the zip wasn’t too
short, it’s easier to shorten the zip than to try and add length to it!
22.
Turn your bag the right way round.
23.
Fold the handles in half where you’ll hold them,
then stitch together.
25.
Push 4 bag feet through the base of the bag,
close to each corner, these are affixed in the same way as large brads.
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